the diamond grading report

Diamond certificates, or certs, as they are known in the diamond industry, are often called the fifth C, in addition to the well-known 4Cs of diamond stones: carat weight, cut, color, and clarity. A diamond certificate is the evaluation by a third-party, not by either the diamond buyer or seller. Unfortunately, an 3rd party certification is necessary, as it would be easy for an unscrupulous jeweller to take advantage of an uninformed buyer and sell a stone, which might be sold with higher qualities and value than it really does. While many of the diamond grader's certifications might be different from the next, the following are a list of the most commonly used diamond graders in North America:

• Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD) - Commonly referred to as the "Diamond High Council" is one of the highest standards in diamond grading. HRD's diamond certificates are considered legal documents in the European Union.
• Gemological Institute of America (GIA) - Is a non-profit organization that created the "4 C's" methodology as well as the International Diamond Grading System. Reports from this institute omit certain aspects of diamond cuts that other reports cover (e.g. crown height percentage, pavilion depth percentage, crown angle, pavilion angle). Keep in mind that GIA issues reports - not certificates.
• American Gemological Society (AGS) - Certifies diamonds based on their cut grade on a rating scale from 0 (most desirable) - 4 (least desirable). AGS is now more widely used for gemstone grading rather then diamond grading. 
• European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) - Has the least amount of structure in comparison to the above graders. EGL is an independent network of diamond grading laboratories. Grading standards tent to vary from one labe to another, making EGL less desirable and trusted than HRD, GIA, and AGS grading reports. 




As there are relatively less restrictions in diamond grading than any other retail industry it really is a buyer-beware market. Select a jeweller that will educate you on your stone and allow you to view the diamond loose. By hand selecting your stone and viewing the stones flaws under a microscope you are ensuring yourself that you are making an educated decision. Diamond qualities can vary from grading, report, and certification and it's beauty really is in the eye of the beholder.

the anniversary list

Dating back to medieval times, the 25th and 50th were "silver" and "golden" respectively - and by the 1930's, many milestone anniversaries had gift suggestions of their own. Over the years, the tradition has been updated and modernized to it's current form.

Here is the widely accepted list of the major anniversaries and their corresponding gifts, along with a creative idea or two for your significant other.

1st: Paper

Cards are the obvious choice, but don't be afraid to think outside the box and get creative! How about a custom journal or a set of personalized stationery? Tickets also totally count as paper, so a concert  or fun vacation are also game (as long as you print the itinerary, that is!).

2nd: Cotton

For your second anniversary, you could snuggle up with your spouse in matching terrycloth robes or monogrammed towels. Or how about a luxurious sheet set or some new bedding to perk up the bedroom? If you have a backyard or porch, maybe invest in a swinging chair or sturdy cloth hammock for relaxing time together spent enjoying the outdoors.

3rd: Leather

There are tons of possibilities for your third anniversary. A leather gift can mean a briefcase or folio for the businessman/woman, leather jewelry or even a pair of comfortable moccasins. Leather can be expensive, but remember that a good quality leather product can last for a lifetime - just like your marriage!

4th: Linen/Silk

Underwear is always a go-to gift idea, but have you ever considered that linen and silk are also used as canvases? Choose a beautiful painting that reminds you of the one you love - or get extra creative and make your own work of art!

5th: Wood

This sturdy material offers tons of choices! Go big with a piece of furniture like a new bedframe or rocking chair. And if you're not looking for something so large, consider a beautiful jewelry box, a cedar chest, a set of bookends or a decorative piece to display in your home. Remember - mokada sells bands with a wooden inlay as well!

6th: Iron

While maybe not the most romantic material, there are still lots of fun possibilities for this year. For example, an old horseshoe with a tag that reads "I got lucky when I met you," or a fishing hook that says "I'm hooked on you."

10th: Tin/Aluminum

Jewelry is pretty standard here, but if your significant other prefers something more rugged, take a look at an aluminum Swiss Army Knife. It’s original, unexpected, and useful! If that’s not a go, whitewashed tin products give a rustic and antique feel to a garden, ceiling, or any room in a house.

20th: China

This is the year to expand your dishware collection, so look at serving dishes, teacups, and soup tureens for an interesting alternative to plates and bowls. Alternatively, you can take the China Anniversary more literally and book a trip to Shanghai!

30th: Pearl

When shopping for pearls, remember that they come in lots of colors other than the traditional white. Look for pink, silver, rainbow, or other colored pearls for an interesting variation on the classic white.

40th: Ruby

Ruby's are one of our most favourite gemstones. Try custom designing her wedding band with ruby gemstones to mark the milestone anniversary!

50th: Golden

The fiftieth year of marriage marks the “golden anniversary,” and we think that warrants celebration. This is a time for gold jewelry (possibly along with renewed vows?), but don’t discount a trip to the city of “Gold Coast,” Australia or to Florida’s gold coast cities like Miami and Ft. Lauderdale. Gold is extravagant, so make this anniversary really count - after more than five decades together, you certainly have something to celebrate!

the ombré fade.

Ombré (from the French world "ombrer" meaning to shade) is a colouring technique when the shade fades from light to dark. The gradient colours are stunning when used in hair trends, nails and billowy silky fabrics. I've even used the ombré trend with lipstick with a dark purple/red fading into a natural pink in the inner lip. You can say I'm a little obsessed. I adapted the hair trend a number of years ago now because of it's easy up-keep and beach hair look but I'm in love with bright spring coloured ombré jewelry this spring. 

The idea is to have a gradual change between gems with a smooth transition without a distinguished line between shades. I love ombré faded jewelry on big bold gems for statement pieces and and small gradual fades on gems of the same size. We recently had a client who inherited a number of pearl pieces from her grandmother that did not suit her taste. We restrung the pearls of different colours to a subtle ombré fade that incorporated her grandmother's heirlooms with an unexpected twist of today's look. We loved how elegant and trendy the pearls looked! 

 

single vs full cut diamonds

Single cut diamonds began in the 1600's with just a few facets to catch the light. Consumers and jewellers have more recently moved back to single cut diamonds because of the shortage and cost of the diamonds today. Single cut diamonds can still refract light and when set properly, give a brilliance to jewelry in a more cost effective manner.




The difference between single cut diamonds and regular round brilliant diamonds is the number of facets (cuts). The classic round brilliant (full cut) will have 58 facets while single cut diamonds have 16-18 facets; 8 facets on top, 8 facets on the bottom and additional facets on the culet, facet or the crown. Single cut diamonds are small and usually under .10 carats. Some jewellers prefer to use single cuts on small stones because there are fewer cuts making the facets more visible compared to round brilliants having 58 facets within one very small stone.

the yellow sapphire mystery

We have been in the industry for over twenty years and although we don't claim to know it all we believe to have our fair share of knowledge. Until we had a client that was adamant he have a 4+ carat untreated natural yellow sapphire in a round, oval or cushion shape. We deal with specific requests often and we tailor to all sorts of client drivin guidelines but we found this request ultra specific. The mystery of these requests left us researching the mythology of the beautiful yellow sapphire.

The yellow sapphire is regarded as the best of gemstones much like Jupiter is regarded as the teacher of all gods. Jupiter represents wisdom, religion and wealth. It focuses on what one wants to achieve in life.  The wearer of yellow sapphire gets the knowledge of law, ethics, wit, wisdom, worldly happiness and mental peace. It is most beneficial to authors, writers and businessmen. The yellow sapphire energizes the concentration of the mind and gives warmth and protection to relationship. It can be used in healing various diseases like arthritis, heart problems and impotency. In Hindu traditions the yellow Sapphire is worn for marriage, boy or girl who are not married or their marriage is delayed for any reasons shall wear Yellow Sapphire. It is also worn for conjugal bliss.

Yellow sapphires are worn in Hindu and Vedic traditions. In both beliefs the yellow sapphire is used to bring great wealth and prosper to new marriage and business ventures. There are several recommendations to bring the most success to the wearer but both traditions have the same guideline to success:

• The bearer should start wearing the yellow sapphire on a Thursday within an hour of sunrise.
• Sapphire must be natural; no colour or heat treating.
• The yellow sapphire should be a minimum of 2 carats but 4 carats is ideal.
• If the yellow sapphire is being set into jewelry, it must be set in gold. 
• If the sapphire is set into a ring, it must be worn on the index finger of the right hand.
• The yellow sapphire must be of extremely high quality.

a man's band

As a custom design studio, we've learned that there really is endless opportunities. Jewellers tend to focus more on the women's engagement ring whilst there really is more options for men's bands than most people know. Of course style, affordability, and comfort are top of mind in most groom-to-bes but ring metal and material might be a more difficult decision than you might think.  Besides your basic platinum, gold, and sterling silver we've compiled a little bit of information on a few of our most popular up and coming alloys.

TUNGSTEN CARBIDE

This specially engineered, exclusively patented metal formulation is a unique blend of tungsten and carbon that creates a material that's one of the hardest materials used in jewelry. In fact, Tungsten Carbide TC.850TM is ten times harder than gold. As one of the most popular choices for men's wedding bands (second only to Gold), Tungsten Carbide is hypoallergenic and known for being the most scratch-resistant metal choice, ensuring your ring will retain its natural color and alluring luster for as long as you own it. The superior formulation of Tungsten Carbide TC.850TM is only available at licensed jewelers

TITANIUM

Sleek. Timeless. Cool. Titanium is often referred to as the "space age metal" for its low density, strong, lustrous, corrosion-resistant surface, and rich grey coloring. As strong as some steels, but 45% lighter in weight, titanium possesses the highest strength-to-weight ratio of any metal.

COBALT

Cobalt is a hypoallergenic and tarnish resistant bright white metal that has been used in jewelry for hundreds of years. This strong, solid contemporary metal is durable, dense, and similar in weight to gold. Rich in shine and sophistication, it's a solid material that evokes classic masculinity and strength.

STAINLESS STEEL

Rugged and refined, stainless steel is one of the most popular metals used in jewelry and watch-making today. Its familiar luster and stain resistant properties make it an easy, low maintenance choice that looks great and will last for years. Triton jewelry features the highest quality stainless steel, 316L, which does not rust and has increased resistance to corrosion.

DIAMONDS

Born from coal, diamonds are the hardest known naturally occurring substance on earth, so hard in fact it is the standard that all other materials are measured against. Diamonds are used in a wide variety of industries for its superior abilities in precision cutting and as strong abrasives. Having few weaknesses and many strengths, diamonds have earned their status as the world's most popular gem and are available in many colors, even black.

the mokada process

The perfect ring has many important steps before it finds the perfect person. Yes, there may be times when "the ring" captures your eye with the elation you were hoping for but what happens when you can't find a piece that evokes those emotions? More than half (59%) of proposals in 2011 had custom aspects in the engagement ring. There are many steps in the custom design process but mokada has conception  it to four steps.

The Concept Stage

We explore pictures, drawings, descriptions, likes/dislikes with you to narrow down to a general design concept. 

The Design Stage

Working with you, we come up with a design for what you have envisioned. With a 3D image of your jewelry, you'll be confident that you are getting exactly what you want. Once the final design has been approved we create a wax model of that is optional for viewing before the piece is sent to cast.

We Work For You

mokada believes that your jewelry should be a perfect fit; including the budget. Pricing for any piece has many different variables; choice of metal, size and quality of set stones, intricacy of design, and weight. mokada can cast your heirloom in 18k gold, 14k gold, 10k gold, platinum, and sterling silver. Quality of stones, especially diamonds, play a large part of preference and budget. Once the Design Stage is complete mokada works for you in determining which variables are the perfect fit.





Today's Heirloom

It feels different when you wear a piece of custom-designed jewelry. Many thoughts and emotions come to play when going through the design process of creating tomorrow's family heirloom. It will fill you with pride to know that you had a hand in creating a beautiful family heirloom. Nothing brings us more excitement when seeing your concept come to realization.

To start your custom design process today contacts us at www.mokada.ca 

Will you be my Valentine?

When did it all start?

There are a few theories on the origin of Valentine's Day, but the most popular dates back to the time of the Roman Empire during the reign of Claudius II, 270 A.D. Claudius didn't want men to marry during wartime because he believed single men made better soldiers. Bishop Valentine went against his wishes and performed secret wedding ceremonies. For this, Valentine was jailed and then executed by order of the Emperor on Feb. 14. While in jail, he wrote a love note to the jailor's daughter, signing it, "From your Valentine." 

History & Fun Facts

• The ancient Romans celebrated the Feast of Lupercalia on Feb. 14 in honor of Juno, the queen of the Roman gods and goddesses. Juno was also the goddess of women and marriage.
• Many believe the X symbol became synonymous with the kiss in medieval times. People who couldn't write their names signed in front of a witness with an X. The X was then kissed to show their sincerity.
• Girls of medieval times ate bizarre foods on St. Valentine's Day to make them dream of their future spouse.
• In the Middle Ages, young men and women drew names from a bowl to see who would be their Valentine. They would wear this name pinned onto their sleeves for one week for everyone to see. This was the origin of the expression "to wear your heart on your sleeve."
• In 1537, England's King Henry VII officially declared Feb. 14 the holiday of St. Valentine's Day.
• Alexander Graham Bell applied for his patent on the telephone, an "Improvement in Telegraphy", on Valentine's Day, 1876.
• Richard Cadbury produced the first box of chocolates for Valentine's Day in the late 1800s.
• More than 35 million heart-shaped boxes of chocolate will be sold for Valentine's Day.
• Over $1 billion worth of chocolate is purchased for Valentine's Day in the U.S.
• 73 percent of people who buy flowers for Valentine's Day are men, while only 27 percent are women.
• 15 percent of U.S. women send themselves flowers on Valentine's Day.
• On average, men shell out $130 each on candy, cards, jewelry, flowers and dates. That’s more than double what women commit to spending.
• The most fantastic gift of love is the Taj Mahal in India. It was built by Mughal Emperor Shahjahan as a memorial to his wife.
• In the 1800s doctors commonly advised their heartbroken patients to eat chocolate, claiming it would sooth their pain. To this day, many women find comfort in a box of chocolates when dealing with heartbreak.
•  220,000 is the average number of wedding proposals on Valentine's Day each year.
• More at-home pregnancy tests are taken in the month of March then any other month of the year.

History of a Diamond

Diamonds are a girl's best friend, so how well do you know your bestie? Here's a quick cheat sheet on our most adorned jewel.

Jewelry Trends 2013

Jewelry trends typically are forecasted from the three R's: Red Carpet, Runway & Real Life. Here is a quick list of trends the Mokada ladies think you should be looking for in 2013.

Shine bright like an emerald. Pantone just named emerald the colour of the year and we've already seen stars hit the red carpet fashioning this brilliant gem. International mining firm Gemfields is aiming to do what De Beers has done for diamonds; making the emerald a standard household item. Emeralds and rubies are the second hardest gemstone next to a diamond and make ultra unique engagement rings for those looking to break the mould.

Snakes and social ladders.  Love it or hate it, we're going to snakes trickle down from the red carpet. Rachel Weisz shines in Bulgari's Serpenti Collection this runway season. She's often the face of classic beauty and we love how she's showing off her edgy side in jewel adorned serpents. Watches, arm bands, bracelets and even clutches have taken shape to our slithery friend... And we love it.

Stacking, stacking, stacking. The "stackables" ring trend has been around for the past few years but this year we are seeing it more than ever. One of my favourite new trends for this year is the knuckle ring. Stacking a mixture of gold, fashion and thin rings and topping the look off with a few tiny rings on the your first knuckle is a perfect hipster-chic combination.  We'll also see the colour blocking trend move to your arm candy.